I walked this 28 mile stretch for the first time in July 2013.
After a 7 day hike in May on the West Highland Way I thought that would be enough to see me through for a few months but this was not the case and after just a few weeks back in the chicken coop (office), I was eager to plot my next escape. Discussions were soon in place with my fellow trekkee and our next wee trek would be a section of the SUW, backpacking it over a weekend starting Friday 26 July.
I decided on the stretch from Sanquhar to Beattock via Wanlockhead due to the location and mileage that would be involved. My mate coming from Dumfries and myself heading down from Aberdeen, we would 'alight' at Sanquhar railway station. For many years I had passed Sanquhar station while travelling to Dumfries, always noticing the sign, "Alight here for the Southern Upland Way", so it just had to be done!
The plan was to wild camp by Wanlockhead on Friday evening, and spend Saturday night at Brattleburn Bothy, several miles from Beattock, before crawling into Beattock on the Sunday. We would enjoy a few Voddy's and play some tunes after reaching the bothy but unfortunately things never do go quite to plan...
Friday - Sanquhar to Wanlockhead
Distance: 8 miles Ascent: 440 metres
So the weekend finally arrived, I was all geared up, caught my train and set off on my mini adventure, glad to see the back of the city for a while. The Weather was pretty decent for a change, sun shining brightly, though a little breezy. Arriving at Wanlockhead, my fellow trekkee was sitting at the platform waiting for me. We head to Spar for some supplies before heading for the hills, towards Wanlockhead.
Once at the top of the hill we missed a waymarker which would have taken us directly across a field to Cogshead, instead, we ended up following a landrover track. It got us to Cogshead but with an extra 5 miles or so added onto the route! Never mind, we still had plenty of daylight left. It wasn't too long before we arrived at Wanlock Water, catching a glimpse of the old mine workings with some great views, finding our perfect wee camping spot by the river.
Once set up we explored the mine workings and enjoyed a few well deserved Beers before sun down, and got attacked by Midges of course. I was prepared though, High strength Deet spray kept em from biting too much. I think it was the Beer they were after.
Saturday - Wanlockhead to Brattleburn Bothy (I wish!)
Distance: 15 Miles
Total ascent: 990m
It had stayed dry through the night and had been very peaceful, waking up about 8am I popped my head out the tent and was greeted by a solo backpacker. We had a quick chat, he was walking in the opposite direction heading back towards Sanquhar.
We got up and packed away our gear before a quick Coffee, then hit the road towards the village.
We stopped outside the Visitor Center/Mining Museum/Tea rooms to use the facilities and stock up on supplies. Unfortunately the shop didn't open until 11am, reducing our chances of actually making it to the bothy before dark.
The time we finally got round to leaving Wanlockhead it was about half past 11, about 3 hours wasted.
We soon plodded on up a massive hill that felt like it was never going to end to reach the Radar station at 710 meters before heading into the Lowther Hills. Once into the Lowther Hills, it didn't end there as we were up and down like a rollercoaster for pretty much the rest of the day... and night! Strenuous but great for calorie burning.
It was pretty much a rollercoaster ride throughout the day, over the hills and far away, up and down like a Yo-Yo, but some great views
Just as we thought the hill climbing was over, another one was right round the corner and the next one wasn't even a hill, more of a mountain in disguise!!
Eventually we made it to Daer Reservoir, early evening and thought we must be nearly at that bothy by now, thinking we could see it at the other side of the reservoir but no... haha, no we were far from it...
Past the reservoir it was more uphill, and it was just never ending. We stopped for a rest admiring the views of the reservoir, the sun had disappeared and the clouds were getting darker when suddenly a big RUMBLE. The weather had taken a turn for the worst, Thunder in the distance!
The rain came on, as we pushed ourselves up the hill ahead of the thunder, heading for the bothy, not realising it was still miles away. The thunder got closer and the rain continued to get worse.
We finally reached the top, (apparently 567 metres high) then descended to Greskine Forest but couldnt find the waymarker after that, and as it was beginning to get dark. we were f*!k!ng LOST! The rain was getting heavier, the sky was getting darker and Thunder was getting closer, so we had to just call it a day and pitch the tents in the first suitable place. We had to face it, we were not going to make it to the bothy, there wasn't going to be any hard earned rewards.
Tired and pee'd off, we headed back up to the top of the hill we had just descended from and pitched the tents in the farmers field, and just in the nick of time as the rain became torrential. It was now pitch dark and for the next hour we heard Thunder as we hid in our tents hoping not to get struck by lightning.
Torrential rain carried on right through the night, I was dehydrated and had no water, I had to swap my Snickers bar with Trekkee for half of his can of Lager just so I could have a drink! Luckily I managed to collect about a litre of rain water with the mess tin through the night which I purified in the morning and carried in a bottle.
Sunday - Greskine Forest - Beattock - Moffat
The next morning after a crappy sleep, we got up about 8am and packed away our soaking tents as it continued to rain. Our aim now was just to get back to civilization as soon as... but there was no quick route, we were still about 6-7 miles from Beattock and still lost! We descended back down to Greskine Forest to see if we could find the waymarker, and sure enough it was there!! Just hiding away behind the undergrowth, easier to see in daylight!
We were no longer lost but due to the torrential rain, the paths in front of us had now turned into streams, marshes and bogs! New boots ruined. It was not a very pleasant walk into Beattock, but on the brighter side of things, we passed the bothy! ! :roll:
Once we made it to Beattock we walked an extra mile into Moffat and got picked up at the garage.
Overall it was an interesting adventure, one I will always remember but I think if I ever do the whole of the Southern Upland Way in the future, I'll be skipping this section.
We made a wise decision to go back up the hill and pitch the tents, otherwise we would of been walking for miles in the dark, in torrential rain trying to find that bothy. It would have turned into an absolute nightmare, we would probably have ended up pitching the tents on low ground and being water logged in the morning. If we had only left Wanlockhead 2 hours earlier we could have made it, but you live, you learn, as they say.
gallery here - https://get.google.com/albumarchive/100408387173570597610/album/AF1QipOxk3BVrnWMK53zszVDBFQ8sTXVqC_nUuD3bFmM?authKey=CJfDwdbw9rHiOw
