I had not been intending to walk The Speyside Way until 2014 but after completing the West Highland Way and the East Highland Way, and having crappy weather on both, I decided one last trek was in order.
Unfortunately none of my trekker friends were available to join me so it was off into the wild, all alone for the very first time.
I had planned to walk it over 4-5 days, just walking as many miles as possible in a day, camping at night. I managed it over 5 days and 4 nights), starting the walk in the afternoon.
The plan was to start at Aviemore and finish at Buckie, as I live in Aberdeen it would be an easy bus journey home.
DAY 1 Aviemore - Boat of Garten (6 miles) Boat of Garten - Nethy Bridge (5 miles)
So the big day arrived, I travelled to Aviemore by train via Inverness, arrived in Aviemore about lunchtime and after a quick walk around Tesco for supplies, I set off on my journey.
The first section was easy going, passing the Golf Course and railway line out of Aviemore, through the woods, joining the National Cycle Network Route 7 across open moorland to Boat of Garten.
I carried on walking into the early evening, passing through the Abernethy Forest, and arriving on the outskirts of Nethy Bridge before dark.
I found myself in a wooded area where there was a Picnic bench and small river flowing under the road bridge. It seemed a good little place to set up camp, it was a little exposed to passers by, but as it was to get dark soon, I felt I had no option but to stop here for the night. Unfortunately, one of the locals passing through the area didn't agree, so after a quick meal it was time to move on.
I packed up my gear and plodded on through Nethy Bridge with my torch trying to spot the way markers, not knowing where I was going to end up. I soon lost the route and ended up following the B970 towards Spey Bridge passing a scary old Church Yard/Graveyard and Castle Roy. I pondered on up the road for a couple of miles in the darkness before finally climbing over a locked gate into a farmers field, where I finally got a nights rest. Luckily there were no Cows or Sheep in the field and I had a peaceful night except for the occasional passing car and at one point, a UFO hovering in the sky.
DAY 2 (THUR) Nethy Bridge - Grantown on Spey (6 miles) Grantown on Spey - Ballendalloch (13 miles)
I was up at first light, making sure I was packed up and away before the farmer appeared. I carried on up the B970 road for about 2 miles before spotting a trail which joined up with the Speyside Way.
Once back on route I found myself following the old Railway line for another 2 miles, before arriving at Spey Bridge then it was a short walk through some woodland to Grantown-on-Spey. I stopped by the riverside for a rest before heading into the town for supplies, it was then back into the woods for a long 13 mile hike, upwards, towards Ballendalloch.
This had to be the worst stretch of the entire walk encountering many ascents and descents over steep hills and rough ground, it was also the first day that I met other walkers. The route started off easy, strolling through the Anagach Woods and passing the old Cromdale station before a big ascent into Tom an Uird Wood.
There were many more ascents across farmland before rejoining the old railway path towards Ballendalloch, finally arriving at Ballendalloch Station Wild Camping area.
I was the only camper on site, until a short while after when another guy who had been a couple of miles behind me showed up and set up his tent nearby. We didn't speak. I cooked up some Noodles and brewed some well earned Hot Chocolate before calling it a night.
DAY 3 (FRI) Ballendalloch - Craigellachie (12 miles)
This was to be my easiest day, walking only 12 miles between Ballindalloch and Craigellachie. I decided not to do the Tomintoul spur, mainly because I can't stand hills when I have my backpack on, too much like hard work.
So I was up for 9am, then walked about a mile towards Tomintoul to get supplies from the Petrol Station. I then walked back to Ballindalloch Station and continued on the trail, crossing the River Spey and heading for Craigellachie. I spent much of the morning following the old railway, passing some old stations and many Distilleries.
There is a great free campsite with toilets at Craigellachie. I set up camp here before the rain came on, once again I had my Noodles and Hot Chocolate before retiring, as the heavy rain came on and stayed on through the night.
DAY 4 (SAT) Craigellachie - Fochabers (13 miles) Fochabers - Spey Bay (5 miles)
After packing away my soaking wet tent, I headed into Craigellachie in the pouring rain for supplies. It was then onwards and upwards towards Fochabers. Much of the route was by road with some forest tracks thrown in for good measure. I passed a couple of Fochaber locals who stopped for a chat.
I arrived in Fochabers at 4pm just in time for the Chip Shop opening and after a good feed at the Chippy it was back to the riverside, and what a beautiful evening it turned out to be.
After a sunny evening stroll through the countryside, I eventually arrived at Spey Bay around 7, in plenty of time to watch the sun set.
I had a quick look around the bay area before heading back about a mile to where I had found a great little camping spot in a Wildlife conservation area. I spent the night here scared out of my whits but comforted by my mp3 player and half bottle of Southern Comfort. I opened my tent up in the morning and "something" scarpered away from the nearby trees.
DAY 5 (SUN) Spey Bay - Buckie (5 miles)
I made it to see daylight, and I was out of there and back on the path to Spey Bay, passing the Golf course, via the forest, before continuing across the country railway path towards Port Gordon.
Shortly arriving at Port Gordon, it was just a 2 mile walk along the coast to Buckie, and a 40 minute wait for my bus home.
After adventuring on the Great Glen, South Loch Ness, The West Highlands
and a section of the Southern Uplands, my next long distance trek was
to be the East Highland Way.
It was to be completed over 5-6 days, backpacking and camping in the wilderness.
It
would be much more of a challenge than my previous hikes, as for the
first time I would be carrying all my camping gear in my backpack for a
period of more than 2 days. It was also to be the first long distance
route navigated without the use of Way Markers, however I had planned
ahead by purchasing a compass and a copy of the Guide Book.
Unfortunately
my usual trekking buddy wasn't available to join me on this occasion so
I put an ad online and it wasn't long before the emails came flowing
in. There were numerous responses but it narrowed down to just 2 other
people who were as keen on the trek as I was.
A month or so
passed and all the arrangements had been discussed and finalized. We
would begin the hike on the Monday morning of 12 August 2013 and finish
on the Friday evening/Saturday morning. So after much
anticipation the 12 August finally arrived. The weekend was spent
camping with friends at Loch Lomond before heading on up to Fort William
on Sunday evening. I checked into my accommodation then went to meet
my new buddies for a pint (or three) at The Great Glen (Weatherspoons).
After an enjoyable evening, we returned there in the morning
for a delicious full Scottish Breakfast (A full english breakfast in
disguise), before heading out of town and into the wilderness...
DAY 1 - FORT WILLIAM TO ACHLUACHRACH
It wasn't long before we arrived at our first destination, Spean Bridge, just in time for lunch. It was peeing it down and we looked like drowned rats, we took cover in the Commando Bar, where the menu had a wide variety of food on offer from Fish and Chips to Fish and Chips. It was a difficult decision but in the end I settled for Fish and Chips. We waited for the monsoon to die down before creeping back outside and venturning about a mile uphill to see the Commando Memorial. It was then back downhill to get supplies from the local shop before carrying on towards Tulloch.
It was a long wet hike through woodland, farmland and countryside. We found our first way marker after about 9 miles into the walk, always good to know we're on the right track.
It was clear we weren't going to make it as far as Tulloch on the first day, we were about half a mile from Achluachrach and decided to call it day. We didn't know if there was a camping area in Achluachrach so we just carried on walking eastwards, following the river Spean towards the ruins of Achnacochine, where we could try to find a camping spot by the river.
After following the river Spean for about a mile, we found the perfect little spot to set up camp. Luckily the rain held off for a bit, while we got the tents up but it wasn't long before the rain was back on for the rest of the night. There was nothing to do but retire for the night, but after walking 18 miles, I think that is all we wanted to do anyway.
DAY 2 - ACHLUACHRACH TO EAST LOCH LAGGAN
Day 2 arrived, it had been a peaceful night by the river. We got up bright and early and had Breakfast before packing up our gear, burning our rubbish and heading for the hills. The rain had finally stopped.
We passed the ruins of Achnacochine and soon had to cross the stoney burn of Allt nam Bruach. There was no bridge so it was a case of finding a suitable place to cross. As I began to step across some stones, I under estimated the weight of my rucksack, lost my balance and fell in the burn, hurting my hand and soaking myself as far as my hips. Luckily no pictures were taken!!
Feeling refreshed from a dose of comedy, we pressed on, up through the forest (currently undergoing deforestation), now with very wet feet heading towards Feagour, passing Inverlair, Tulloch and Moy Bridge. It was a very long tiring day of forest tracks and road walking, not easy on the feet (especially wet ones!). After miles of forest tracks we eventually reached the west end of Loch Laggan.
It was time for a quick break before the next long stretch to the east side of the loch, where we would hopefully be able to set up camp. It turned out to be a nice evening as we were presented with some terrific views of the Loch and its sandy beach. We eventually reached the wild camping area at the east side of the loch with plenty of time to spare before dark. We got our tents pitched and explored the area, finding a water source, and firing up the stove with not a soul in sight. It was a very peaceful night and stayed dry right through.
DAY 3 - EAST LOCH LAGGAN TO DALNASHALLAG BOTHY
Wednesday morning arrived and soon there was to be only two. We packed up and got on our way, we had some trouble finding our bearings to begin with and headed off in the wrong direction, not the wrong direction as such, but towards the motorway instead of the countryside. We had to backtrack about a mile or so to get back onto the East Highland Way route, unfortunately one of our group didn't like the idea of going back the way. It was at that point he went off on his own, via the roadside, we felt bad leaving him but it was his choice. We expected to see him again once we reached Laggan.
So the team of two took the East Highland Way through the countryside heading for Laggan, passing Pattack Falls and Feagour before a quick detour to the Wolftrax Cafe for lunch. The little outdoor cafe was a sight for sore eyes, it's amazing just how delicious a Bacon & Egg Roll and a Cup of Tea with Milk can taste when you're living in the wild. Truly luxury!
Full of beans, we made our way back up the hill and back onto the route, passing Spey Dam. From here it was a 3 mile descent through woodland and around country roads to reach Laggan village. It turned out to be a grand afternoon and even required Sunscreen.
We reached Laggan late afternoon, no sign of Gary but there was still plenty of time to find a pub before the evening hike to Dalnashallag Bothy. We made our way to The Monarch for a much deserved Pint (or two). It was a nice place but apparently now closed, probably due to the high prices that were encountered.
We made our way out of Laggan and back into the country, heading for Dalnashallag Bothy. We passed through some old farmland with some boarded up stables and crofts, then as the rain arrived it was a cold, wet, misty trek across the heather moorlands and through the mountains to finally reach Dalnashallag Bothy... and what a relief that was!
With about 2 hours of daylight left we got the fire going, clothes dried, noodles on the boil and our feet up, all refreshed and ready for day 4.
DAY 4 - DALNASHALLAG BOTHY TO KINGUSSIE
Thursday morning arrived, it had rained through much of the night, it was good to know there was no tent to take down. Had a Coffee and Porridge, signed the bothy guestbook and made our way out of the mountains towards [b]Newtonmore[/b].
The sky had cleared and we now had some spectacular views of the mountains and beyond. It was about 5 miles to [b]Newtonmore[/b], it mostly stayed dry. Once reaching the outskirts of [b]Newtonmore[/b], we kept an eye out for Scottish Wildcats, there were many to be found as we passed through the town... made of ceramic! We got supplies from the Co-Op and paid the Highland Folk Museum a visit before the next stage to Kingussie. There was much variety in terrain and environment during the next stage, as we were led through Woodland, farmland, across heather moorland and around Loch Gynack into more woodland, before eventually arriving at Kingussie. It was then a quick pint in the Silverfjord before hitting the road towards Kincraig.. or wherever we were going to end up!
It was early evening we left Kingussie, it turned out to be a lovely evening as we stopped for a photo shoot at Ruthven Barracks. We then carried on walking along the B970 for a short distance to reach the Insh Marshes RSPB Reserve, where we followed the Invertromie Trail to find a perfect wild camping spot by the river Tromie. We set up camp, and had our grub before the sun went down. Once again it was a peaceful night and not another soul in sight. It also stayed dry =:)
DAY 5 - KINGUSSIE TO AVIEMORE The final day arrived with just 18 miles to go, and still no sign of Gary! We spent the morning walking to Loch Insh Watersports Centre where we grabbed some Breakfast at the Cafe before a couple of miles stroll to the shop at Kincraig for supplies. From the outskirts of Kincraig it was then just 10 miles to Aviemore!!
So it was off on the final stretch to [b]Aviemore[/b], visiting the Frank Bruce Sculpture Park and passing the Island Castle of Loch an Eilein and Inshriach bothy. We had the enjoyment of wild Raspberries along the way. The weather stayed dry and we finally reached [b]Aviemore[/b] late afternoon, plenty of time to check in at the campsite before heading into the town for Beers, Beers and more Beers.
So... It was a long tracherous hike through the Scottish Wilderness. I got rained on, attacked by Midges, hounded by Wolves, chased by Wild Cats and haunted by Bothy ghosts. I even fell in the river, while escaping a roaring Bear, but at the end of the day, it was worth it, just for that experience and adventure of surviving the Scottish Wilderness!
Overall it was a great hike, weather wasn't too bad, there weren't many hills, the ground wasn't boggy. There aren't many waymarkers but the EHW guide book kept us on the correct route and If I have the opportunity to walk it again, I will, most likely in the heat of summer but with different company, just for the change. Would probably make it a long one and continue onto the Speyside Way, right on up to Buckie. That was my original plan but due to work, I had to delay the Speyside Way until September. See my other reports for The Speyside Way.
I walked this 28 mile stretch for the first time in July 2013.
After a 7 day hike in May on the West Highland Way I thought that would be enough to see me through for a few months but this was not the case and after just a few weeks back in the chicken coop (office), I was eager to plot my next escape. Discussions were soon in place with my fellow trekkee and our next wee trek would be a section of the SUW, backpacking it over a weekend starting Friday 26 July.
I decided on the stretch from Sanquhar to Beattock via Wanlockhead due to the location and mileage that would be involved. My mate coming from Dumfries and myself heading down from Aberdeen, we would 'alight' at Sanquhar railway station. For many years I had passed Sanquhar station while travelling to Dumfries, always noticing the sign, "Alight here for the Southern Upland Way", so it just had to be done!
The plan was to wild camp by Wanlockhead on Friday evening, and spend Saturday night at Brattleburn Bothy, several miles from Beattock, before crawling into Beattock on the Sunday. We would enjoy a few Voddy's and play some tunes after reaching the bothy but unfortunately things never do go quite to plan...
Friday - Sanquhar to Wanlockhead Distance: 8 miles Ascent: 440 metres
So the weekend finally arrived, I was all geared up, caught my train and set off on my mini adventure, glad to see the back of the city for a while. The Weather was pretty decent for a change, sun shining brightly, though a little breezy. Arriving at Wanlockhead, my fellow trekkee was sitting at the platform waiting for me. We head to Spar for some supplies before heading for the hills, towards Wanlockhead.
Once at the top of the hill we missed a waymarker which would have taken us directly across a field to Cogshead, instead, we ended up following a landrover track. It got us to Cogshead but with an extra 5 miles or so added onto the route! Never mind, we still had plenty of daylight left. It wasn't too long before we arrived at Wanlock Water, catching a glimpse of the old mine workings with some great views, finding our perfect wee camping spot by the river.
Once set up we explored the mine workings and enjoyed a few well deserved Beers before sun down, and got attacked by Midges of course. I was prepared though, High strength Deet spray kept em from biting too much. I think it was the Beer they were after.
Saturday - Wanlockhead to Brattleburn Bothy (I wish!) Distance: 15 Miles Total ascent: 990m
It had stayed dry through the night and had been very peaceful, waking up about 8am I popped my head out the tent and was greeted by a solo backpacker. We had a quick chat, he was walking in the opposite direction heading back towards Sanquhar. We got up and packed away our gear before a quick Coffee, then hit the road towards the village.
We stopped outside the Visitor Center/Mining Museum/Tea rooms to use the facilities and stock up on supplies. Unfortunately the shop didn't open until 11am, reducing our chances of actually making it to the bothy before dark. The time we finally got round to leaving Wanlockhead it was about half past 11, about 3 hours wasted.
We soon plodded on up a massive hill that felt like it was never going to end to reach the Radar station at 710 meters before heading into the Lowther Hills. Once into the Lowther Hills, it didn't end there as we were up and down like a rollercoaster for pretty much the rest of the day... and night! Strenuous but great for calorie burning.
It was pretty much a rollercoaster ride throughout the day, over the hills and far away, up and down like a Yo-Yo, but some great views
Just as we thought the hill climbing was over, another one was right round the corner and the next one wasn't even a hill, more of a mountain in disguise!!
Eventually we made it to Daer Reservoir, early evening and thought we must be nearly at that bothy by now, thinking we could see it at the other side of the reservoir but no... haha, no we were far from it...
Past the reservoir it was more uphill, and it was just never ending. We stopped for a rest admiring the views of the reservoir, the sun had disappeared and the clouds were getting darker when suddenly a big RUMBLE. The weather had taken a turn for the worst, Thunder in the distance!
The rain came on, as we pushed ourselves up the hill ahead of the thunder, heading for the bothy, not realising it was still miles away. The thunder got closer and the rain continued to get worse.
We finally reached the top, (apparently 567 metres high) then descended to Greskine Forest but couldnt find the waymarker after that, and as it was beginning to get dark. we were f*!k!ng LOST! The rain was getting heavier, the sky was getting darker and Thunder was getting closer, so we had to just call it a day and pitch the tents in the first suitable place. We had to face it, we were not going to make it to the bothy, there wasn't going to be any hard earned rewards.
Tired and pee'd off, we headed back up to the top of the hill we had just descended from and pitched the tents in the farmers field, and just in the nick of time as the rain became torrential. It was now pitch dark and for the next hour we heard Thunder as we hid in our tents hoping not to get struck by lightning.
Torrential rain carried on right through the night, I was dehydrated and had no water, I had to swap my Snickers bar with Trekkee for half of his can of Lager just so I could have a drink! Luckily I managed to collect about a litre of rain water with the mess tin through the night which I purified in the morning and carried in a bottle.
Sunday - Greskine Forest - Beattock - Moffat
The next morning after a crappy sleep, we got up about 8am and packed away our soaking tents as it continued to rain. Our aim now was just to get back to civilization as soon as... but there was no quick route, we were still about 6-7 miles from Beattock and still lost! We descended back down to Greskine Forest to see if we could find the waymarker, and sure enough it was there!! Just hiding away behind the undergrowth, easier to see in daylight!
We were no longer lost but due to the torrential rain, the paths in front of us had now turned into streams, marshes and bogs! New boots ruined. It was not a very pleasant walk into Beattock, but on the brighter side of things, we passed the bothy! ! :roll:
Once we made it to Beattock we walked an extra mile into Moffat and got picked up at the garage.
Overall it was an interesting adventure, one I will always remember but I think if I ever do the whole of the Southern Upland Way in the future, I'll be skipping this section.
We made a wise decision to go back up the hill and pitch the tents, otherwise we would of been walking for miles in the dark, in torrential rain trying to find that bothy. It would have turned into an absolute nightmare, we would probably have ended up pitching the tents on low ground and being water logged in the morning. If we had only left Wanlockhead 2 hours earlier we could have made it, but you live, you learn, as they say.
The West Highland Way was Scotland's first long distance route and
remains by far the most popular. Stretching for 151km from Milngavie on
the edge of Glasgow to Fort William at the foot of Ben Nevis, the route
offers a fabulous introduction to the Scottish Highlands. The
154Km (96miles) route starts at Milngavie (approx 7 miles north of
Glasgow) and passes through Mugdock Country Park, follows the shores of
Loch Lomond, passing Ben Lomond, through Glen Falloch and Strathfillan,
crossing Rannoch Moor, past Buachaille Etive Mor to the head of Glencoe,
climbing the Devil’s Staircase, descending to the Loch Leven before
entering Lairigmor and Glen Nevis and finishes at Gordon Square in Fort
William.
This was my first time walking the West Highland Way. I have lived in Scotland all my life but I never really took an interest in the outdoors until 2011 after dragging myself up Ben Nevis in an effort to lose weight. That was followed up in 2012 by walking stages of the Great Glen Way, after that there had to be a plan for 2013 and there it was. My friend agreed to join me on the challenge to complete West Highland Way, and we set a date for 18 May 2013.
May 17 finally arrived. My father transported us to Milngavie on the Friday afternoon, the kind chap would act as our baggage transfer service for the week.
Upon arrival in Milngavie we paid Tesco a visit before heading to Bankell Farm, 2 miles east of Milngavie where we would spend our first night before our big adventure. The campsite was fairly busy and fairly cheap at £6.00 per night. It thankfully stayed dry for the evening as we pitched our tents for the first time of the 2013 season. Then we got down to business, celebarting the start of our adventure with the first bbq of the season, washed down with some Stellas.
Day 1 - Saturday 18 May 2013 Milngavie to Carbeth - 5 miles Carbeth to Drymen - 7 miles
My father drove us to Milngavie Centre, where we got our picture taken stood by the obelisk, the starting point of the WHW. We popped into Costa for a quick Latte before making a move about 10am. We made our way to Drymen, a 12 mile walk passing through Mugdock Country Park and Carbeth as the rain came on heavy. We ran for cover at the Glengoyne Distillery, taking advantage of the lower priced tour.
Upon reaching Drymen, we pitched up at Drumquhassle farm before taking a walk into the village, where there is a few shops, pubs and a hotel. There is also a bank with a cash machine.
Day 2 - Sunday 19 May 2013 Drymen to Balmaha - 8 miles Balmaha to Sallochy Bay - 4 miles
We left Drymen through the Garadhban forest (or what used to be a forest) and climbed over a very misty Conic Hill to eventually arrive at Balmaha and the foot of Loch Lomond. We made use of the facilities at Balmaha before replenishing our supplies at the village shop and heading off around the loch, towards Rowardennan. We didn't go as far as Rowardennan as we had pre-booked camping at Sallochy Bay, about 3 miles before Rowardennan. This is a really nice place to camp, especially if you book a pitch by the loch (which I did).
We arrived at Sallochy Bay at about 4.30pm and then waited a short while for the warden to arrive so that we could show our reservation, rent a firepit and buy some firewood. We chose a perfect spot by the lochside where we could play music without disturbing anyone then got the BBQ fired up, and the tunes fired on. It stayed dry throughout the evening and even the temperature through the night was awesome, as I remember not even needing my sleeping bag. It was a grand evening.
Day 3 - Monday 20 May 2013 Sallochy Bay to Rowardennan - 2-3 miles Rowardennan to Inversnaid - 7 miles Inversnaid to Inverarnan - 7 miles
Several hours later after regaining consciousness, we woke up to a beautiful morning by Loch Lomond, the sun was shining, the birds were singing. We had breakfast (the usual porridge pot and a coffee) before packing everything back into the van and setting off on a long walk towards Inverarnan. My Dad would meet us at the other end.This would be our hardest day of the week, a walk of approx. 17 miles to reach the top end of Loch Lomond. The plan was to get a nice meal at the Drovers Inn when we finally arrived at Inverarnan.
It took us a couple of hours to reach Rowardennan where we stopped for a drink in the beer garden at The Rowardennan Hotel. Then we carried on through Rowardennan, passing the Youth Hostel and the route up to Ben Lomond, following forest tracks and some of the lochside path to reach Inversnaid where many other WHW walkers were congregating. It must have been around 4pm that we passed through Inversnaid. It had turned out to be a nice day.
We stopped at the Inversnaid hotel to use the facilities and enjoyed a cold glass of Coke before pressing on. We thought about ordering food but decided against it as we'd brought noodles. So we continued on a little farther until we reached a small beach area where we sat down for a rest and made our noodles.
The next stage was interesting as we followed a rocky lochside path to reach the top of Loch Lomond. It actually felt like we were on an obstacle course as we scrambled over steep muddy paths, giant rocks and tree roots, climbed over gates and crossed small wooden bridges for the next few miles. A real life game of snakes and ladders it was, but an enjoyable experience and the many ferile goats we met here also seemed to be enjoying themselves. I'm not so sure it would've been enjoyable if it had been raining.
We continued along the lochside path into the evening, eventually passing by Doune bothy. There was nobody home so we gave the place a quick inspection. It was up to my standards. Some time (much) later we finally completed the bonny banks of Loch Lomond and began to approach Inverarnan as the sun began to set. We passed a herd of wild deer while nearing completion of the loch, they seemed a little offended by our presence.
We finally stumbled into Beinglas campsite (Inverarnan) at about quarter to 10, slightly later than expected. My father had been (impatiently) waiting there for us, in his van, for some time and was now rather angry at the time it had taken us to arrive! It was too late to go to the Drovers Inn as they stopped serving food at 10pm and we still had to get the tents pitched up. We got the tents up then ordered some hot food at the Beinglas campsite bar as they were just preparing to close. Then it was time for some much required sleep. zzzzzzzzzzzz
Day 4 - Tuesday 21 May 2013 Inverarnan to Crianlarich - 6 miles Crianlarich to Tyndrum - 6 miles
It started off another bright and sunny morning as we set off on a 6 mile walk, across open moorland, towards Crianlarich, followed by another 6 mile walk, mostly through forestry to reach Tyndrum.We didn't need to stop at Crianlarich for anything so avoided the turn off and kept walking. It was a reasonably short day, arriving in Tyndrum by mid afternoon. We got the tents put up at 'By the Way' campsite then my Dad drove us back down to Inverarnan where we enjoyed a meal at The Drovers, since we never made it the previous night. Then it was back to the campsite for another peaceful sleep, seeing us fit for another long walk.
Day 5 - Wednesday 22 May 2013 Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy - 7 miles Bridge of Orchy to Inveroran - 2 miles
On day 5 we were joined by some of my family members, who had driven all the way up from the south for a long weekend at Glencoe. They drove up early to meet us by the Green Welly Stop where we grabbed a Coffee and supplies before heading off towards Bridge of Orchy. We got off to a late start but this would be our shortest day, covering only 9 miles to reach Inveroran.
We picked up the old military road, never losing sight of the railway to arrive at Bridge of Orchy 7 miles later, where we stopped for lunch at a picnic bench by the river. My family left us at this point and drove off to Glencoe to do their own thing. My Dad stuck around with our gear for an hour until we reached Inveroran.
It didn't take us long to reach Inveroran as the weather began to take a turn for the worst. The Inveroran camping area was a little further on past the Inveroran Hotel. The original plan once reaching the camp was to have another bbq and a tipple by an open fire, I had even collected some firewood but unfortunately it wasn't meant to be as we began to experience all seasons of the year in one day.
We became tent bound for the rest of the day as the area was suddenly bombarded by giant hailstones followed by random showers of rain, sleet and snow. It got very cold, winter had somehow returned in the space of a few hours. There wasn't much to do except cook inside my tent which I now know was a stupid thing to do!! That was followed by an afternoon nap.
Throughout the evening more random walkers turned up, including some brave dude with a bivvy bag. I think he was drunk.
Day 6 - Thursday 23 May 2013 Inveroran to Kingshouse - 10 miles Kingshouse to Kinlochleven - 9 miles
Woke up to a cold morning and forced myself out of my sleeping bag, unzipping the tent for a peek outside. Most folk had already left and we were behind as usual, the man in the bivvy was still lying there though, not sure if he was actually alive or not. I woke JP up and told him to get a move on as we had a long day ahead of us, a 19 miler to reach Kinlochleven.
We packed up and waited for my father to arrive in the van as he was once again taking our gear (lazy I know but he offered). The weather had calmed down a bit. We had some breakfast at the van before starting the next stage, towards Kingshouse. It rained pretty much all the way.
We stopped at the Glencoe Ski Centre cafe for a Coffee before plodding on a little further to reach Kingshouse, taking in some magnificent views of the mountains of Glencoe. Upon reaching Kingshouse, the usual herd of wild deer were congregating outside the hotel, getting a little cheeky because we wouldn't feed them. We were hungry but didn't stick around for Venison as the weather was pretty rubbish, we just wanted to push on, making our way around the back of the hotel, where there is a wild camping area for anybody who is interested.
We made our way along the grassy path, which becomes parallel to the main road past Glencoe, to arrive at the bottom of Devils Staircase. Some would say climbing Devils Staircase is the worst part of the walk but it was far from it, although maybe because we didn't have any packs to carry. We then pondered on over through the mountains towards Kinlochleven (in the rain!!).
Eventually we were graced with the first views of Kinlochleven peeking through from the valley below, we began descending through the forest to reach Kinlochleven about 7pm. My Dad was waiting for us and gave us a lift to the campsite. I had hoped to camp at the Macdonald Hotel & Campsite but forgot to book and they were all full up so we settled for the Blackwater Hostel instead. When we arrived it must have been about 8pm. It was very busy but we managed to find a space and got the tents pitched up before a walk up the town.
Day 7 - Friday 24 May 2013 Kinlochleven to Fort William - 16 miles
Our final day had arrived and after a steep climb out of Kinlochleven we were eager to reach the finish line. We made our way through the mountains, stopping at the ruined farmhouse for lunch as the big bright thing in the sky made its return.
We stopped again for a noodle break about 2pm as the weather got really hot. It stayed nice for the rest of the day and we began looking forward to a nice cold beer and a long overdue barbecue.
...and after a depressing stroll through yet another de-forested forest (what a mess), we eventually arrived at Glen Nevis campsite about 4pm where pitched up before walking the last couple of miles into the town to reach the original, and then the official end of the West Highland Way. Some other walkers offered to take our pic, which we accepted then it was off to Morrisons for the barbecue and Beers, lots and lots of Beers.
Walking Mither Tap, Craigshannoch & Oxen Craig via Bennachie Centre
Caught the 9am bus from Aberdeen Union Square to Pitcaple, then walked the country roads from Pitcaple to Bennachie Centre. Finally arrived at our destination, Bennachie Centre just after 11am. If travelling by car, this whole journey would only have taken 30 minutes.
We took the timeline trail through the forest (or what used to be a forest!) and began to ascend the three peaks of Bennachie. We arrived back at the Bennachie Centre for 5pm then had another hours walk ahead of us back to Pitcaple bus stop.
Dunnottar Castle is a ruined medieval fortress located upon a rocky headland on the north-east coast of Scotland, about 3 kilometres (1.9 mi) south of Stonehaven. The surviving buildings are largely of the 15th and 16th centuries, but the site is believed to have been fortified in the Early Middle Ages. Got the morning train from Aberdeen to Stonehaven and walked the coastal path from Stonehaven directly to the Castle. Spent a few hours there before walking back to Stonehaven the same route. #Dunnottar #Stonehaven #Castle
