After adventuring on the Great Glen, South Loch Ness, The West Highlands and a section of the Southern Uplands, my next long distance trek was to be the East Highland Way.
It was to be completed over 5-6 days, backpacking and camping in the wilderness.
It would be much more of a challenge than my previous hikes, as for the first time I would be carrying all my camping gear in my backpack for a period of more than 2 days. It was also to be the first long distance route navigated without the use of Way Markers, however I had planned ahead by purchasing a compass and a copy of the Guide Book.
Unfortunately my usual trekking buddy wasn't available to join me on this occasion so I put an ad online and it wasn't long before the emails came flowing in. There were numerous responses but it narrowed down to just 2 other people who were as keen on the trek as I was.
A month or so passed and all the arrangements had been discussed and finalized. We would begin the hike on the Monday morning of 12 August 2013 and finish on the Friday evening/Saturday morning.
So after much anticipation the 12 August finally arrived. The weekend was spent camping with friends at Loch Lomond before heading on up to Fort William on Sunday evening. I checked into my accommodation then went to meet my new buddies for a pint (or three) at The Great Glen (Weatherspoons).
After an enjoyable evening, we returned there in the morning for a delicious full Scottish Breakfast (A full english breakfast in disguise), before heading out of town and into the wilderness...
DAY 1 - FORT WILLIAM TO ACHLUACHRACH
It wasn't long before we arrived at our first destination, Spean Bridge, just in time for lunch. It was peeing it down and we looked like drowned rats, we took cover in the Commando Bar, where the menu had a wide variety of food on offer from Fish and Chips to Fish and Chips. It was a difficult decision but in the end I settled for Fish and Chips. We waited for the monsoon to die down before creeping back outside and venturning about a mile uphill to see the Commando Memorial. It was then back downhill to get supplies from the local shop before carrying on towards Tulloch.
It was a long wet hike through woodland, farmland and countryside. We found our first way marker after about 9 miles into the walk, always good to know we're on the right track.
It was clear we weren't going to make it as far as Tulloch on the first day, we were about half a mile from Achluachrach and decided to call it day. We didn't know if there was a camping area in Achluachrach so we just carried on walking eastwards, following the river Spean towards the ruins of Achnacochine, where we could try to find a camping spot by the river.
After following the river Spean for about a mile, we found the perfect little spot to set up camp. Luckily the rain held off for a bit, while we got the tents up but it wasn't long before the rain was back on for the rest of the night.
There was nothing to do but retire for the night, but after walking 18 miles, I think that is all we wanted to do anyway.
DAY 2 - ACHLUACHRACH TO EAST LOCH LAGGAN
Day 2 arrived, it had been a peaceful night by the river. We got up bright and early and had Breakfast before packing up our gear, burning our rubbish and heading for the hills.
The rain had finally stopped.
We passed the ruins of Achnacochine and soon had to cross the stoney burn of Allt nam Bruach. There was no bridge so it was a case of finding a suitable place to cross. As I began to step across some stones, I under estimated the weight of my rucksack, lost my balance and fell in the burn, hurting my hand and soaking myself as far as my hips. Luckily no pictures were taken!!
Feeling refreshed from a dose of comedy, we pressed on, up through the forest (currently undergoing deforestation), now with very wet feet heading towards Feagour, passing Inverlair, Tulloch and Moy Bridge. It was a very long tiring day of forest tracks and road walking, not easy on the feet (especially wet ones!).
After miles of forest tracks we eventually reached the west end of Loch Laggan.
It was time for a quick break before the next long stretch to the east side of the loch, where we would hopefully be able to set up camp. It turned out to be a nice evening as we were presented with some terrific views of the Loch and its sandy beach.
We eventually reached the wild camping area at the east side of the loch with plenty of time to spare before dark. We got our tents pitched and explored the area, finding a water source, and firing up the stove with not a soul in sight. It was a very peaceful night and stayed dry right through.
DAY 3 - EAST LOCH LAGGAN TO DALNASHALLAG BOTHY
Wednesday morning arrived and soon there was to be only two.
We packed up and got on our way, we had some trouble finding our bearings to begin with and headed off in the wrong direction, not the wrong direction as such, but towards the motorway instead of the countryside. We had to backtrack about a mile or so to get back onto the East Highland Way route, unfortunately one of our group didn't like the idea of going back the way. It was at that point he went off on his own, via the roadside, we felt bad leaving him but it was his choice. We expected to see him again once we reached Laggan.
So the team of two took the East Highland Way through the countryside heading for Laggan, passing Pattack Falls and Feagour before a quick detour to the Wolftrax Cafe for lunch. The little outdoor cafe was a sight for sore eyes, it's amazing just how delicious a Bacon & Egg Roll and a Cup of Tea with Milk can taste when you're living in the wild. Truly luxury!
Full of beans, we made our way back up the hill and back onto the route, passing Spey Dam. From here it was a 3 mile descent through woodland and around country roads to reach Laggan village. It turned out to be a grand afternoon and even required Sunscreen.
We reached Laggan late afternoon, no sign of Gary but there was still plenty of time to find a pub before the evening hike to Dalnashallag Bothy. We made our way to The Monarch for a much deserved Pint (or two). It was a nice place but apparently now closed, probably due to the high prices that were encountered.
We made our way out of Laggan and back into the country, heading for Dalnashallag Bothy. We passed through some old farmland with some boarded up stables and crofts, then as the rain arrived it was a cold, wet, misty trek across the heather moorlands and through the mountains to finally reach Dalnashallag Bothy... and what a relief that was!
With about 2 hours of daylight left we got the fire going, clothes dried, noodles on the boil and our feet up, all refreshed and ready for day 4.
DAY 4 - DALNASHALLAG BOTHY TO KINGUSSIE
Thursday morning arrived, it had rained through much of the night, it was good to know there was no tent to take down. Had a Coffee and Porridge, signed the bothy guestbook and made our way out of the mountains towards [b]Newtonmore[/b].
The sky had cleared and we now had some spectacular views of the mountains and beyond. It was about 5 miles to [b]Newtonmore[/b], it mostly stayed dry. Once reaching the outskirts of [b]Newtonmore[/b], we kept an eye out for Scottish Wildcats, there were many to be found as we passed through the town... made of ceramic!
We got supplies from the Co-Op and paid the Highland Folk Museum a visit before the next stage to Kingussie.
There was much variety in terrain and environment during the next stage, as we were led through Woodland, farmland, across heather moorland and around Loch Gynack into more woodland, before eventually arriving at Kingussie. It was then a quick pint in the Silverfjord before hitting the road towards Kincraig.. or wherever we were going to end up!
It was early evening we left Kingussie, it turned out to be a lovely evening as we stopped for a photo shoot at Ruthven Barracks.
We then carried on walking along the B970 for a short distance to reach the Insh Marshes RSPB Reserve, where we followed the Invertromie Trail to find a perfect wild camping spot by the river Tromie. We set up camp, and had our grub before the sun went down. Once again it was a peaceful night and not another soul in sight. It also stayed dry =:)
DAY 5 - KINGUSSIE TO AVIEMORE
The final day arrived with just 18 miles to go, and still no sign of Gary!
We spent the morning walking to Loch Insh Watersports Centre where we grabbed some Breakfast at the Cafe before a couple of miles stroll to the shop at Kincraig for supplies. From the outskirts of Kincraig it was then just 10 miles to Aviemore!!
So it was off on the final stretch to [b]Aviemore[/b], visiting the Frank Bruce Sculpture Park and passing the Island Castle of Loch an Eilein and Inshriach bothy. We had the enjoyment of wild Raspberries along the way.
The weather stayed dry and we finally reached [b]Aviemore[/b] late afternoon, plenty of time to check in at the campsite before heading into the town for Beers, Beers and more Beers.
So... It was a long tracherous hike through the Scottish Wilderness. I got rained on, attacked by Midges, hounded by Wolves, chased by Wild Cats and haunted by Bothy ghosts. I even fell in the river, while escaping a roaring Bear, but at the end of the day, it was worth it, just for that experience and adventure of surviving the Scottish Wilderness!
Overall it was a great hike, weather wasn't too bad, there weren't many hills, the ground wasn't boggy. There aren't many waymarkers but the EHW guide book kept us on the correct route and If I have the opportunity to walk it again, I will, most likely in the heat of summer but with different company, just for the change. Would probably make it a long one and continue onto the Speyside Way, right on up to Buckie. That was my original plan but due to work, I had to delay the Speyside Way until September. See my other reports for The Speyside Way.
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